Morocco

I've just come back from the most amazing holiday.

I feel lucky. So incredibly lucky. I often think this. I mean, do I seriously get to go on these wonderful holidays and visit these places some people could only dream about? This is my life and I love it.

So Morocco was mind blowing. I'm not sure what I was expecting, but it far surpassed my expectations. Africa is intoxicating. Life there is simple, hard and somehow makes you feel ashamed for being Western. By no means would I want to be a woman there. I can't tell you how many men we drove past in the country who were either lazing around in groups on the street or sitting around cafes while the women lugged bundles of produce on their backs. I can only imagine how many women get raped there. Perhaps it is only towards Western women, but it seems if you're a female, you're basically a piece of meat and men are therefore entitled to act like animals toward you. It's wrong and uncomfortable, but it's a society where everyone's roles have been played out for centuries and somehow, it works.

I can only wonder what they think of us Westerners. While their way of life is by no means enviable, I kept on thinking how ridiculous they would think my life is. Rushing around constantly, never having time and don't get me started on how meaningless my job is. Western life is so vacuous. We obsess about the most superficial bullshit it makes me feel ashamed and stupid. The more time I spend in poorer countries, the more I think they have it right. All the money in the world can't make your life richer. What right does the Western world have to throw their weight around in countries such as Africa and the Middle East when, by comparison, our values are often inferior to those of these countries?

Anyway, enough ranting.

So on the first day Skinner and I lay on the rooftop of our riad and listened to the afternoon prayers which are broadcasted out over speakers all over the city. Having the sun on my face was amazing. I think I actually announced how amazing it was at least 6 times in 15 minutes. Anyway, after that we went exploring around the Djemaa el-Fna which is Marrakesh's main square. Skinner and I downed a couscous, tagine, pot of mint tea and half a kilo of biscuits in about half an hour. It was a good start to the holiday. After wandering around the souks we then decided it was time to eat more at the food stalls they had started setting up for the night in the middle of the square. I can't begin to tell you how amazing the square is. Imagine the most amazing smells, the sound of snake charmer flutes and Berber drummers set under an open air eating area.

I found myself wishing I had spent way more time paying attention to my numbers during French lessons at school. Perhaps remembering which was left and right would have been helpful too. While I was quite good at making small talk and asking how much things were, and even asking for directions, I had problems putting the information I got into practice as I only know my numbers up to 30. Here's an example:

Me: (in French) How much?
Stall owner: (in French) Blah blah blah
Me: (in French) That's too much!
Stall owner: How much then?
Me (can't think of any numbers) No thanks, bye!
Skinner: How much was it?
Me: Um, I don't know

Mum would be so proud.

So we then found a safari company and decided to go on a 3 day trek into the countryside. The next day we headed by mini van to the Sahara via Ait Benhaddou, Ouarzazate, Erfoud and into the desert by camel for a night of camping. It was amazing. Trekking through the Sahara is one of the most incredible things I've ever done. It was stunning. Mind blowing. Breathtaking. When we got to the campsite we climbed up a sand dune just in time to watch the sun set over the Sahara. We stayed the night with our Berber hosts and sat around in a tent made of local rugs singing songs and telling riddles. Sounds naf as, but it was really cool. I even got up and did some Berber dancing with one of them. We then retired to our rug tents which were, to put it simply, freezing. We slept on our rugs that we had for our camel ride with another blanket on top for 'added warmth'. That and having to wear all the clothes I brought with me! Anyway, I loved it. We go up in time to get on our camels again and watch the sun rise before heading back for a 10 hour car ride back to Marrakesh. I realised during the trip back that I had left my underwear in the tent. It was so dark I couldn't see anything, so since then I've been getting flashes of the Berber dudes sitting around playing their drums with my underwear on their head. At least they were clean.

When we got back we decided to try another riad that some people we met had stayed in. Anyway, to cut a long story short, we ended up staying in the most beautiful riad for a dirt cheap price. It was stunning. There was a small pool in the middle of the courtyard with an open air roof looking out to the stars. Our last day in Marrakesh was spent visiting the tannery and have the ins and outs of pigeon shit by some random dude and watching the goat carcasses still with hoofs carted in and out. We then got hasseled by the local dude who had taken us there and got a bit freaked out by him following us. So we found a Hamman to hide in, and what a great place to hide. I got my arse cheeks seriously scrubbed by this Hamman dude. Because of my inadequate French I wasn't entirely sure what we were in for, but it was fantastic. We were in this stone room where we got scrubbed, bathed and rubbed in mud.Comparing notes after, Skinner's cheeks didn't seem to get the same scrubbing as mine which was slightly concerning, but still, mine were all the better for it. We then had an amazing couscous for lunch, went to the Majorelle Gardens tried to go a museum but the taxi dude took us to a completely random place instead, sat in the square and soaked in the ambiance over a coffee and then had our final meal at the night markets followed by another half kilo of biscuits. Mmm.

Then I got totally felt up by a female security officer at the airport. It was really weird in a slightly violating way.

Anyway, back now, feeling slightly depressed and having my wisdom teeth out tomorrow. Ugh.